Clothes in Medieval Ireland During the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Cen

*Clothes in Medieval Ireland During the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries*
http://www.essortment.com/family/medievalirishc_svyv.htm

Note: The statute of Kilkenny, and other English interventions
during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries forbade the people in
the Pale around Dublin, and in the cities controlled by England or
its clients from adopting native Irish customs including mode of
dress. The following article outlines the Irish style of dress in
the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.

Clothes in medieval Ireland mainly consisted of two items that were
found in the earliest found records up until the 16th century: the leine
and the brat. In addition there were other garments worn by soldiers.
Most Irish clothes of the time were very brightly colored, often striped
dotted or otherwise patterned. Brehon's law (the set of laws that
governed ancient Ireland) dictated which specific colors a person's
clothes could be:

"The son of a king of Erin shall wear satin and red clothes...''

"The sons of the inferior classes of chieftains shall wear black,
yellow, or gray clothing..."

''The sons of the lowest class of chieftain shall wear old clothes...''

Material for garments varied with social class. The lower classes, which
made up the majority of the population, wore clothing made of wool or
linen. Since silk and satin had to be imported, only the very rich could
afford garments made from such materials.

*Leine*
The first was the leine (pronounced lay'/nuh; plural leinte). This was a
smock like garment, either sleeveless or with fitted sleeves that fell
to just above the ankles. For women, the garment could be even longer,
although a full-length leine was never worn with out a brat (see below).
Among lower classes, leinte were often shorter, presumably to allow for
manual labor. The arms, chest and neck also had a looser fit to allow
workers to slip to garment down to their waists during the day's heat.
Designs were embroidered on the neckline, cuffs and hemline. The leine
was often pulled up through a belt, making the top billow and the length
shorter.
http://www.magicmyst.com/chemise.htg/lgleine.gif
http://www.mistythicket.com/ebay/celtic_irish_leine_shirt_01.jpg
http://www.mistythicket.com/ebay/celtic_irish_leine_shirt_01.jpg

*Brat*
The second item found in medieval Irish garb is the brat (pronounce
braht). This was a rectangular cloak, most often made from wool. It was
worn much like a shawl, with a pin to fasten it at the neck or right
shoulder. It was a voluminous garment that could be repositioned to
create a hood. Brats were dyed many bright colors. Often the brat was
one color with a fringe or border of another color. As with the leine, a
longer length indicated a higher social status.
http://www.queenmedbencampment.org/images/costumes/women1.jpg
http://www.queenmedbencampment.org/images/costumes/brat1.gif
http://www.queenmedbencampment.org/images/costumes/bratmenwomen.gif

*Inar*
Another garment sometimes found is the inar. This was a close fitting
jacket that came to the waist. It was made both with sleeves and
without. The inar was worn with trews (close fitting trousers) and never
a leine. Soldiers are most often depicted in these garments.
http://spohl.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1_1024.ts1138329717331.jpg

*Broc*
The trews worn with the inar were brocs. These were tight fitting
trousers. They came to at least the knee, but could often be longer.
When they were longer, they also had a strap that fit around the bottom
of the foot, making them look similar to modern stirrup pants.
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/ktrews.jpg

*Crios*
The crios was a belt, either woven or made out of leather. In addition
to holding up a leine, the crios was used to carry things as was often
the way in mediaeval cultures.

*Brog*
Brog was a general term for shoes. Most brogs were made of untanned
hide, making them soft and pliable. They were stitched together with the
same hide and there was no lift or insole. There were also more ornate
shoe made of tanned hide that had heelsm but these were most likely for
special occasions.
http://www.daisy-roots.com/shop/prodimages/products/normal/BRO55.jpg

*Kilts*
There is still some speculation as to whether or not the ancient Irish
wore kilts. Some historians believe that they did in fact wear kilts.
Other believe what is actually depicted is a leine pulled up through the
belt, only giving the appearance of a kilt.

here's another article on medieval clothing from the era.
http://www.oldandsold.com/articles08/costume-6.shtml

roslyn

Bill Barber <bbarber@...> wrote:
*Clothes in Medieval Ireland During the Fourteenth and Fifteenth Centuries*
http://www.essortment.com/family/medievalirishc_svyv.htm

Note: The statute of Kilkenny, and other English interventions
during the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries forbade the people in
the Pale around Dublin, and in the cities controlled by England or
its clients from adopting native Irish customs including mode of
dress. The following article outlines the Irish style of dress in
the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries.

Clothes in medieval Ireland mainly consisted of two items that were
found in the earliest found records up until the 16th century: the leine
and the brat. In addition there were other garments worn by soldiers.
Most Irish clothes of the time were very brightly colored, often striped
dotted or otherwise patterned. Brehon's law (the set of laws that
governed ancient Ireland) dictated which specific colors a person's
clothes could be:

"The son of a king of Erin shall wear satin and red clothes...''

"The sons of the inferior classes of chieftains shall wear black,
yellow, or gray clothing..."

''The sons of the lowest class of chieftain shall wear old clothes...''

Material for garments varied with social class. The lower classes, which
made up the majority of the population, wore clothing made of wool or
linen. Since silk and satin had to be imported, only the very rich could
afford garments made from such materials.

*Leine*
The first was the leine (pronounced lay'/nuh; plural leinte). This was a
smock like garment, either sleeveless or with fitted sleeves that fell
to just above the ankles. For women, the garment could be even longer,
although a full-length leine was never worn with out a brat (see below).
Among lower classes, leinte were often shorter, presumably to allow for
manual labor. The arms, chest and neck also had a looser fit to allow
workers to slip to garment down to their waists during the day's heat.
Designs were embroidered on the neckline, cuffs and hemline. The leine
was often pulled up through a belt, making the top billow and the length
shorter.
http://www.magicmyst.com/chemise.htg/lgleine.gif
http://www.mistythicket.com/ebay/celtic_irish_leine_shirt_01.jpg
http://www.mistythicket.com/ebay/celtic_irish_leine_shirt_01.jpg

*Brat*
The second item found in medieval Irish garb is the brat (pronounce
braht). This was a rectangular cloak, most often made from wool. It was
worn much like a shawl, with a pin to fasten it at the neck or right
shoulder. It was a voluminous garment that could be repositioned to
create a hood. Brats were dyed many bright colors. Often the brat was
one color with a fringe or border of another color. As with the leine, a
longer length indicated a higher social status.
http://www.queenmedbencampment.org/images/costumes/women1.jpg
http://www.queenmedbencampment.org/images/costumes/brat1.gif
http://www.queenmedbencampment.org/images/costumes/bratmenwomen.gif

*Inar*
Another garment sometimes found is the inar. This was a close fitting
jacket that came to the waist. It was made both with sleeves and
without. The inar was worn with trews (close fitting trousers) and never
a leine. Soldiers are most often depicted in these garments.
http://spohl.photosite.com/~photos/tn/1_1024.ts1138329717331.jpg

*Broc*
The trews worn with the inar were brocs. These were tight fitting
trousers. They came to at least the knee, but could often be longer.
When they were longer, they also had a strap that fit around the bottom
of the foot, making them look similar to modern stirrup pants.
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/ktrews.jpg

*Crios*
The crios was a belt, either woven or made out of leather. In addition
to holding up a leine, the crios was used to carry things as was often
the way in mediaeval cultures.

*Brog*
Brog was a general term for shoes. Most brogs were made of untanned
hide, making them soft and pliable. They were stitched together with the
same hide and there was no lift or insole. There were also more ornate
shoe made of tanned hide that had heelsm but these were most likely for
special occasions.
http://www.daisy-roots.com/shop/prodimages/products/normal/BRO55.jpg

*Kilts*
There is still some speculation as to whether or not the ancient Irish
wore kilts. Some historians believe that they did in fact wear kilts.
Other believe what is actually depicted is a leine pulled up through the
belt, only giving the appearance of a kilt.

Here is another good site about Irish clothing with some great links
and patterns for sale.

http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/index.html

Carol
Loyaulte' me lie

May thanks for this, Carol.

My interest in Ireland was sparked as a result of the tour I took with
my wife last year. I found that I needed to answer a number of questions
about the relationship between Ireland and the English crown in Yorkist
times and before. Unfortunately, our Ricardian biographies and texts of
choice tend to glance over foreign relations and social life in
Richard's time, without really explaining much.

Here are the questions I wanted to answer:

* The English were continually trying to insulate the people in the
Pale from the influence of Irish culture. Also, the old families
who came to Ireland from England and the continental possessions
of the English kings tended to 'go native' very quickly. Even
further, it was essential to the English that their port cities in
the south and west of Ireland be kept safe from the people of the
Irish hinterland. What were the cultural influences that the
English wished to suppress, and why were these cultural attributes
so attractive to people?

* Why were the Irish so (allegedly) fond of Richard, Duke of York?

* What was the Irish role in the Wars of the Roses?

* Why did Desmond feel he could be so familiar with Edward IV?

* What was the relationship between Desmond and Ormonde?

* What similarities and differences existed between the Irish and
English nobility?

* Why was Ireland so important to the English crown?

* Why was Ireland the point of muster for forces backing Simnel and
Warbeck?

I've garnered material for about fifty posts, which help answer these
questions. Most of these posts I have submitted elsewhere. I would be
willing to submit the material here as well, in hopes that they might
stimulate discussion. At the very least, people could add the materials
to their resource files. Generally, what I can say is that Ireland was
vitally important to England for strategic and economic purposes. The
major problem is that, during the Wars of the Roses, English attention
had to be focused elsewhere.

Most of the material I found came directly from Google. I had to mess
around somewhat creatively with key words and phrases. but I took my
time with it. I also gleaned information from Questia, and have
recently gained access to JSTOR.

As many of you know, I am on several Ricardian forums, as well as on
other history forums. My interest in Richard is essentially the same as
most others, but it has recently stuck me that there are so many other
areas of interest concerning the fifteenth century that we seldom touch.

In September, my wife and I are heading down the Rhine and Danube from
Amsterdam to Budapest. Before I go, I'm going to start looking at
Yorkist foreign policy from the vantage point of Burgundy and the Holy
Roman Empire. From a cursory examination, I know that there is a
tremendous amount of information available.

We make a fundamental mistake when we examine Richard and his times only
from the vantage point of the usual sources. There is a great deal of
stuff out there.


lilith82200 wrote:
>
> Here is another good site about Irish clothing with some great links
> and patterns for sale.
>
> http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/index.html
> <http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/irish/index.html>
>
> Carol
> Loyaulte' me lie
>
>

--- In , Bill Barber
<bbarber@...> wrote:
> Here are the questions I wanted to answer:
>
> * The English were continually trying to insulate the people in
the
> Pale from the influence of Irish culture. Also, the old
families
> who came to Ireland from England and the continental
possessions
> of the English kings tended to 'go native' very quickly. Even
> further, it was essential to the English that their port
cities in
> the south and west of Ireland be kept safe from the people of
the
> Irish hinterland. What were the cultural influences that the
> English wished to suppress, and why were these cultural
attributes
> so attractive to people?
>
> * Why were the Irish so (allegedly) fond of Richard, Duke of
York?
>
> * What was the Irish role in the Wars of the Roses?
>
> * Why did Desmond feel he could be so familiar with Edward IV?
>
> * What was the relationship between Desmond and Ormonde?
>
> * What similarities and differences existed between the Irish
and
> English nobility?
>
> * Why was Ireland so important to the English crown?
>
> * Why was Ireland the point of muster for forces backing Simnel
and
> Warbeck?
>
> I've garnered material for about fifty posts, which help answer
these
> questions. Most of these posts I have submitted elsewhere. I would
be
> willing to submit the material here as well, in hopes that they
might
> stimulate discussion.



Yes, please do, Bill. These are very interesting subjects to
explore.

My suggestion is that you introduce them, and we discuss them, one at
a time.

Katy